THE WOMEN’S RUNWAY
BALMAIN FALL 2023
“By celebrating where we come from, we can clearly see where we are headed.” That line, pulled directly from the official definition of the Balmain DNA, perfectly encapsulates the Balmain Women Fall 2023 collection—for this runway that was directly inspired by the incredible silhouettes, signatures and patterns that Olivier Rousteing pulled from the house’s rich archives.
TAKING IT UP A NOTCH
“Those who have followed our collections know already that over the past seasons, I’ve often focused on Pierre Balmain’s legacy and the power of the distinctive tailoring, structure and spirit behind his New French Style—so, this runway definitely did not make any sort of radical shift to some completely new concept. The house’s incredible archives continue to inspire—and it is obvious that there is change in intensity and concentration. We’ve definitely turned the volume up!”
Olivier Rousteing
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TIMELESSNESS, NEVER TIME TRAVEL
As he guided his house during its first four decades, Monsieur Balmain repeatedly stressed the need for fashion to constantly evolve, noting that unless a designer wishes to create period costumes better suited for the theater, it’s imperative that collections reflect the modern needs and the distinctive tastes of each new generation. So, while his runway may celebrate Pierre Balmain’s legendary New French Style, Olivier Rousteing continues to be just as inspired by the uniquely audacious, forward-looking and optimistic values of the house.
A MORE INTIMATE SETTING
Yes, Olivier Rousteing admits that he understands better than most the attention-grabbing power of fashion-festival fireworks and social-media teases. But for the Fall 2023 intimate, smaller presentations, Rousteing aimed to steer clear of any fashion-week hyperbole—instead, he wanted to shine the spotlight directly upon the enduring power and singular sustainability of timeless designs created by Paris’ finest artisans.
INSPIRED BY A LEGENDARY IMAGE
“I love Horst’s iconic 1946 Vogue photograph of Gertrude Stein and her big white poodle Basket, seated in front of a Balmain house model wearing a key look from Pierre Balmain’s first collection. That photo inspired me to echo the ambiance of Pierre Balmain’s earliest post-war couture presentations for our fall collections. I wanted to rely on intimate settings, with only a few people present—that allowed everyone to enjoy the luxury of seeing, close-up, all those incredible details and precise Parisian tailoring that our house artisans make possible.”
Olivier Rousteing
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PARISIAN PERFECTION
Paris couture’s impressive tradition of unmatched dedication to artisanal savoir-faire is what made Pierre Balmain’s post-war success possible. And, as Olivier Rousteing explained to the fashion press, it’s that same singular tradition that allows Rousteing to explore and expand upon the obsession that he shares with the house founder: a passion for precise, impeccable Parisian tailoring and construction.
Only in Paris do all the couture workers, from seamstresses to mannequins, worship and treat a dress like a baby.... in Paris, when the day is over, the artisans are willing to stay and sacrifice their comfort in order to produce something of great beauty.
COUTURE’S DEMANDING STANDARDS
"If a seam is not quite right, that is a matter of life and death."
Ginette Spanier, Balmain's Directrice from 1947 to 1976
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PRECISE PARISIAN TAILORING
The intimate seating allowed the crowd to appreciate the Balmain Atelier’s impeccable Parisian tailoring and impressive embellishments.
A LOGICAL CONTINUATION
“Throughout the pandemic’s months of lockdowns and worries, I often stressed how inspired I was by Pierre Balmain’s powerful optimism and boldness. He dared to dream of new beginnings and was convinced that there was a better future ahead during difficult times (he founded this house just after the Liberation, and his first collection was shown during a time of great shortages, as France struggled to get back on its feet). So, I guess this is the logical continuation of those past collections’ focus on our founder’s distinctive forward-looking vision.”
Olivier Rousteing
THE BALMAIN ARMY
The unusual, intimate setting for the presentation allowed all the members of the Balmain Army to be seated close to the action—for Olivier Rousteing wanted to guarantee that everyone would be able to admire the many small, impressive touches that helped set apart this collection.
THE MEN’S COLLECTION
BALMAIN FALL 2023
